The Escapades Of A Nomadic Wife And Sailor Husband

Siem Reap
In the heart of Southeast Asia lies Cambodia, a land where history whispers through ancient ruins and vibrant landscapes. As a child, I dreamt of its raw beauty, inspired by a National Geographic documentary. Now, as fate would have it, I stood amidst the grandeur of Siem Reap, a city steeped in mystique. Angkor Wat, its crown jewel, stood tall, a testament to the Khmer Empire’s glory. With each step among the ruins, I felt the weight of centuries, hearing echoes of conquest and resilience. In Cambodia, time paused, offering a poignant glimpse into a world both distant and eternal.

Table of Contents

1. Essential Guide to Siem Reap
   1.1 Essential Entry Requirement in Country
   1.2 Visa
   1.3 Accommodation
   1.4 Currency
   1.5 Transportation
   
2. A Detailed Itinerary and Exploration of Must-See Attractions
   – Angkor Wat
   – Bayon
   – Ta Prohm
   – Phnom Bakheng and other Unique Temples
3. Kulen Mountain – Waterfall and Shiva Lingas
4. Fisherman’s Village
5. Pub Street
6. Local Transportation
   

The Genesis of Our Travel Plan

Essential Guide

Get ready for the backstage chaos of organizing an international adventure – Cambodia-style! We’re about to uncover the must-haves: visas, accommodation, return tickets, and convincing authorities we won’t vanish into thin air. Oh, and let’s not forget the proof of payment – because even in travel, money talks!

Requirements for Smooth Entry into the Country

The entry process for the country is simple. You’ll need a valid visa, which you can obtain beforehand via the government website or upon arrival, depending on your nationality. At immigration, they’ll review your hotel booking confirmation, return ticket, and occasionally, they might ask for proof of funds, typically around $500 USD per person on a case-by-case basis. While proof of funds might be more of a formality, it’s still smart to have some cash on hand for emergencies.
So, the must-haves are a Visa, proof of accommodation, and return tickets.

Visa
Getting a visa isn’t as tricky for Cambodia. For an Indian passport, we had two options either snagging one on arrival or sorting it out online beforehand. Since we were planning to cross borders on land and didn’t want any hassle, we went for the online option. In 2023, the fee was 36 USD with no sneaky extras. After checking out loads of other travelers’ stories, we figured it was the way to go. And you know what? It was a breeze! We got our visa sorted in just a day or two.

Accommodation
When selecting a hotel, consider your preferred location, budget, and desired amenities. Whether you’re drawn to the vibrant nightlife around Pub Street, the proximity to Angkor Wat for temple visits, or a quieter area for relaxation, choose a spot that aligns with your activities. Opting for accommodation near Pub Street can save on transportation costs and provide easy access to dining options.
After seeing some stunning photos, we were sold on staying at the Angkor Style Resort to soak up that authentic Khmer vibe. And you know what? It didn’t disappoint! The whole experience was a real treat, letting us dive headfirst into the local culture. Prioritize safety above all else, especially in a city known for crimes and scams. Conduct thorough research about the destination and prioritize hotels with strong safety measures in place.

PS: Our encounter with exceptionally warm-hearted staff turned into cherished friendships.
Through numerous conversations, it became evident that tourism in Siem Reap serves as the city’s economic backbone, enabling locals to pursue their aspirations amidst profound educational and employment challenges. For individuals like Kim Mai Tai- a hotel staff, who juggles multiple shifts to support her family, and our driver, who dreams of an English-medium education for his son, tourism offers hope. Their stories underscore the vital role of tourism in sustaining livelihoods and emphasize the urgent need for community support initiatives to uplift the working class.

Currency
In Siem Reap, both Cambodian riel (KHR) and US dollars are commonly used currencies. While most vendors, including those at local street food stalls, souvenir shops, restaurants, and drivers, accept either currency, smaller transactions are often preferred in riel. It’s advisable to have a combination of both currencies on hand, as change for USD transactions may be provided in riel for smaller amounts. For our local expenses, which primarily included transportation, meals, and tips, we opted for a mix of USD and KHR.

Intraurban Transportation
This time we decided to indulge a bit and opt for convenience and luxury. Therefore, we primarily relied on hiring cabs or tuk-tuks directly from our hotel. While it was a pricier option, our priority was safety and ease of travel. We read numerous stories online about friendly transport scamsters taking advantage of travelers, so we erred on the side of caution. Perhaps in the future, we’ll consider renting a car or bike for greater flexibility. Renting facilities for a bike, bicycle, or car are readily available and convenient throughout the area.
In Siem Reap, the tuk tuk stands out as one of the most delightful modes of intraurban transport. While officially known as “remorque,” everyone still refers to them simply as tuk tuks. These two-wheeled carriages, towed alongside a motorbike, offer a breezy and charming way to explore the city, much like a horse carriage attached to a bike. With open-air seating, passengers get to experience the city from all angles, making each journey a refreshing and immersive experience.

Let’s Go:  Getting into Cambodia- Mode of Transportation

Planning a trip to Cambodia begins with deciding on the mode of transportation. Whether it’s by plane, bus, or car, choosing the right option depends on convenience and your expected itinerary.

For our journey from Bangkok to Siem Reap, Cambodia, we opted for the bus. The itinerary is straightforward:
a pickup from Khao San Road around 1 am –> a land border crossing at Aranyaprathet/Poipet by 7 am –> arrival at our destination in Siem Reap city center by 11:30 am.

Bus Ticket – Bangkok to Siem Reap:
Bus tickets are readily available for purchase both online and offline from various tour operators, with fares generally consistent regardless of the method. We paid 1350 THB per person for a one-way ticket. Upon confirmation of booking, essential information for bus boarding and itinerary is promptly sent via email.

Excited for the adventure, we booked our bus tickets online after reading numerous reviews and making inquiries. On the day of travel, we packed our bags and arrived at the designated bus location in KhaoSan before time. There, we observed a mix of travelers: some as eager and anxious as us, others seasoned veterans of the travel world, and a few carefree souls with a hippie vibe.
At the counter, we confidently presented our hard copies of necessary documents – Visa, hotel booking, and return ticket. And then, we were asked about cash. With only $300 on hand, the counter attendant politely reminded us of the importance of having sufficient funds, especially as Indian travelers were subjected to scrutiny at Cambodian immigration. Reluctantly, we withdrew an additional 20,000 THB for safety purposes at the last minute.

Once sorted, we joined our fellow travelers, all anticipating the adventure ahead. Boarding the bus, we settled in for the journey from Bangkok to Aranyaprathet. Exhausted from the day’s activities, it didn’t take long for us to doze off, eagerly awaiting the sunrise in a new country across the border.

Poipet, Cambodia Experience
As most of us dozed off on the bus, the conductor’s voice pierced through the quiet, instructing us to carry only the essentials and disembark. Stepping off the bus, we were greeted by the crisp morning air, the sun casting a radiant orange glow across the sky—a sight to behold. Instead of rushing to complete formalities, we paused to soak in the moment, capturing the scene in our minds, living in the present of 2023.

Exiting Thailand’s immigration swiftly, we found ourselves in the limbo between Thailand and Cambodia. Ankit and I, groggy yet curious, observed the stark contrast: the orderliness of Thailand was replaced by the chaotic hustle of Poipet, where queues seemed endless and bureaucracy overwhelming. Suddenly, our guide intervened, urging us to rush to the immigration line, a move we didn’t fully comprehend but obeyed, nonetheless.

At the counter, a mid-30s immigration officer, adorned with gaudy jewelry, scrutinized our documents meticulously, his demeanor exuding an unsettling aura of corruption. Despite our preparedness and sincerity, his persistent questioning left us feeling targeted and frustrated. Summoning a senior officer, the interrogation continued in a dimly lit utility room, the sunlight barely penetrating the gloom.

For what felt like an eternity, we endured relentless questioning: our identities, purpose of travel, and financial means were all under scrutiny. Gradually, our patience waned as the absurdity of the situation dawned on us. Eventually, after what seemed like an age, we were granted passage, our passports stamped with reluctance by the immigration officer.

As we emerged from the ordeal, a mix of relief and bewilderment washed over us. We had been the first to enter and the last to leave the building—a surreal experience that left me pondering the quirks of border crossings, wondering if airport immigration would hold similar surprises in my future travels to Cambodia.

Day 1: First Impressions of Siem Reap
As we set off on the bus journey from Poipet to the city center, the excitement of the adventure ahead filled the air. Traversing through remote areas of the city, the bus navigated rough roads flanked by dense jungle and expansive farmlands. It was during this scenic route that I felt like I had stepped into a scene from the movie ‘Jab We Met’, with my husband embodying the essence of my very own ‘Aditya Kashyap’. Generously offering me the dear window seat and providing a makeshift neck-rest pillow with his hand, he created a moment that felt straight out of a perfect movie scene. Lost in the beauty of the surroundings, I found myself slipping into my usual daydreaming mode, the rhythmic bumps of the Cambodian roads reminiscent of those back in my native Bihar. Despite the journey’s challenges, after approximately three hours, we finally reached our destination, greeted warmly by Sam, our pre-booked hotel driver.

Navigating the city from our luxurious tuk-tuk ride to hotel, I was enchanted by the lively streets. Artistic cafes and vibrant gardens lined the narrow paths, while the sky’s blue mingled with the lush greenery and colorful blooms. Fellow travelers embraced the leisurely atmosphere, some pedaling bicycles, others relaxing at local cafes. Time seemed suspended, allowing for pure enjoyment.

Yet, what truly stood out was the pervasive sense of happiness. Locals wore constant smiles, exuding warmth and hospitality. It was as if the city itself radiated joy, inviting all to share in its happiness.

We swiftly arrived at our hotel reception where Kim Mai Tai warmly welcomed us. After a quick check-in, exhaustion from the previous night’s journey lingered, prompting us to seek rejuvenation with a power nap before beginning our evening adventure at Pub Street.

Hungry and in need of refreshment, our minds fixated on one thing: good food. Consulting with Sam, he suggested an Indian restaurant – Lotus Dosa Corner, nestled at the edge of Pub Street. Without hesitation, we abandoned thoughts of sleep, hastily changing and enlisting Sam on a mission to satisfy our cravings. The recommended restaurant proved to be everything we desired, especially for Ankit, who had been away from India for weeks. The flavors transported him back home, a delightful surprise we hadn’t anticipated finding in Siem Reap. Indulging like there was no tomorrow, we savored every bite. With our appetites sated, it was time to explore Pub Street. As the clock struck 7 pm, the street came alive: lights twinkled, people streamed in, and soft music wafted from every corner. We knew exactly where our adventure would lead us next.

Evening at Pub Street on a weekend

During the day, Pub Street is pretty much like any other local market, with stalls set up and people going about their business. As twilight descends, the enchantment unfolds. Neon signs burst into illumination, casting a dazzling glow across the night sky.  From quaint cafes to bustling bars, the aroma of diverse cuisines fills the air, enticing passersby with promises of culinary delights – savoring flavors from distant lands— Indian curries, tangy Mexican tacos, and savory Greek delights and many more. Each dish was a revelation, savored amidst the lively ambiance of the street.
In this nocturnal sanctuary, time seemed to stand still as we immersed ourselves in the vibrant energy of the street. It was a place where memories were made, friendships forged, and the spirit of adventure thrived. Pub Street was not just a destination; it was an experience to be cherished forever.

Day 2: Kulen Mountain and Fishermen Village